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Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life

Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life


11,95 €
Dodanie do 21 dní

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.

William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.


Podrobnosti

Autor William Finnegan
Vydavateľ Corsair
Jazyk anglický
Väzbamäkká
Počet strán512
Formát20 x 15.3 cm
EAN9781472151414
Rok vydania2016
Edícia

Autor

William Finnegan

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